Daffodil Sweater with Vest in Color Knitting Pattern
70The Daffodil Sweater with Vest was originally published in August 1925 in The Needlecraft Magazine.
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This model fits a figure 36 to 42 inches bust-measure.
Measurements: Length from shoulder to lower edge, twenty-one inches; length from neck to end of sleeve, nineteen inches; width around band at lower edge, forty-four inches.
With Shetland floss cast on 60 stitches for the left front, using Nile-green, or any color desired.
1. Knit 1, purl 1, repeat to the end of the row.
2. Purl 1, knit 1, repeat to the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows for 3 inches (in the model 28 rows were worked).
Body Pattern:
1. Knit 6, purl 6, repeat to the end of the row.
Repeat this row 5 times.
7. Purl 6, knit 6, repeat to the end of the row.
Repeat this row 5 times.
These two rows constitute the pattern of the body of sweater.
Repeat the last 12 rows 3 times, when the work should measure 10 inches from the cast-on stitches.
49. Knit 1 and purl 1 in the 1st stitch, thus increasing a stitch, work in the pattern to the end of the row.
Work one row without increasing.
Repeat these two rows, keeping the pattern straight, 11 times more, when 12 stitches will have been added at one side for the armhole curve.
73. Cast on 45 stitches for the sleeve. (There will now be 117 stitches on the needle.) Knit 1, purl 1, repeat 6 times, knit 1, purl 6, then knit 6 and purl 6 as usual to the end of the row.
74. Work in the body pattern for 102 stitches, knit 1, * purl 1, knit 1, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Continue to work the 15 edge stitches of the sleeve in this moss-stitch of knit 1, purl 1, alternately, and the rest of the sweater in the body pattern for 58 rows, which will bring the work to the shoulder. Place the stitches on a safety-pin or a spare needle and cast on 60 stitches for the right front.
Work exactly as described for the left front until the underarm curve is reached.
49. Work in the pattern and increase 1 stitch in the last stitch of the row.
50. Work without increasing, keeping the pattern straight.
Repeat these two rows 11 times.
73. Work in the pattern and cast on 45 stitches at the end of the row for the second sleeve.
74. Work 15 stitches in the moss-stitch pattern of knit 1 and purl 1 alternately, ending with knit 1, and the rest of the stitches in the body pattern.
Work 58 more rows with the 15 edge stitches in moss-stitch, and the rest of the work in the body pattern. At the end of the last row cast on 36 stitches for the back of the neck and continue to knit the stitches left from the first piece, knitting in the body pattern until the last 15 stitches are reached, which must be knitted in moss-stitch.
There should be 270 stitches on the needle.
Next row. Work 15 stitches in moss-stitch, work 240 stitches in the body pattern, work 15 stitches in moss-stitch.
Repeat this row until 60 rows have been worked for the back.
Next row. Bind off 45 sleeve-stitches, work in the body pattern to within 15 stitches of the end of the row, knit these in moss-stitch.
Next row. Bind off 45 sleeve-stitches, work in the body pattern to the end of the row.
Continue to work in the body pattern, but take the last two stitches of every row together for 24 rows, thus decreasing 12 stitches at each side for the underarm curve.
Work 48 more rows in the pattern.
Then work 3 inches of moss-stitch to match the bottom of the fronts, and bind off loosely.
This completes the body portion.
The vest is knitted next; this is done in stocking-stitch, all the even rows being purled, and the odd rows knitted plain. The border is in moss-stitch.
Cast on 54 stitches.
1. Knit 1, purl 1, repeat to the end of the row.
2. Purl 1, knit 1, repeat to the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows for 3 inches.
Join white and knit one row with this.
2. Purl 54 with white.
3. Knit 7 stitches green,* 1 white, 1 green, 1 white, 5 green; repeat from * and at the end of the row there will be only 4 green to knit.
4. Purl 5 green, * 1 white, 7 green, repeat from * and at the end of the row purl 1 white.
5. Knit 1 green, 1 white, * 5 green, 1 white, 1 green, 1 white, repeat from * and at the end of the row knit 4 green.
6. Purl 3 green, 1 white, repeat to the end of the row and purl the last 2 green.
7. Three green, * 1 white, 1 green, 1 white, 5 green, repeat from * and at the end of the row knit 1 white, 2 green.
8. One green, * 1 white, 7 green, repeat from * and at the end of the row purl 1 white, 4 green.
9. Three green, * 1 white, 1 green, 1 white, 5 green, repeat from * and at the end of the row knit 1 white, 2 green.
10. Same as 6th row.
11. Same as 5th row.
12. Same as 4th row.
Repeat from 5th row once more.
21. Knit all the stitches with white.
22. Purl all the stitches with white.
Break off the white thread. The floral pattern now begins.
The dark-green thread is used first; this will always be referred to as "dark" to distinguish it from the lighter green.
23. Twenty-five stitches green, 2 dark, 1 green, 1 dark, 2 green, 3 dark, 6 green, 2 dark, 12 green.
24. Twelve green, 2 dark, 6 green, 3 dark, 2 green, 1 dark, 1 green, 2 dark, 25 green.
Repeat the last two rows twice.
29. Same as 23d row. The gold thread is now added.
30. Twelve green, 2 dark, 7 green, 2 dark, 3 green, 3 dark, 11 green, 1 gold, 13 green.
31. Twelve green, 3 gold, 10 green, 3 dark, 4 green, 1 dark, 7 green, 2 dark, 12 green.
It will be seen that the odd numbered rows are the knit rows and the even ones the purl rows. The worker can follow from the chart.
The 89th row completes the color knitting. Cut the threads of the colors on the wrong side and darn them in or else knit them in while completing the panel. The remainder of this is worked in stocking-stitch in the green until it measures seventeen and one-half inches from the cast-on stitches. Bind off loosely on the wrong side.
For the strip which trims the neck and panel cast on 7 stitches.
1. Knit 1, * purl 1, knit 1, repeat from *.
Repeat this row until the strip is long enough to trim the front edge of the left front, above the moss-stitch, go around the neck, and return to the lower edge of the right front above the moss-stitch.
For the tabs which trim the sweater cast on 5 stitches and knit in the same moss-stitch pattern as the strip just worked. Increase 1 stitch at the end of every row until there are 13 stitches on the needle. Then decrease 1 stitch at the end of every row by taking the last two stitches together until there are 7 stitches on the needle.
Knit 12 rows in moss-stitch upon these 7 stitches and bind off.
Make 3 more tabs in this way.
The buttons are covered with crochet thus: Make 5 chain, turn, miss 1, work 1 double in each of the first 3 stitches, work 3 in the last stitch, work upon the opposite side of the foundation-chain for 3 doubles and then work 3 in the last stitch. Do not turn but work round and round upon the little circle thus formed for two or three more rounds, break the thread, put the cover over the mold and fasten neatly on the wrong side.
To make up the sweater properly all pieces should be carefully pressed under a damp cloth with a fairly hot iron.
Sew the front panel to the two fronts, beginning at the lower edge.
Seam the sides and sleeves. Join the strip to the sides of the panel and around the neck. Sew two tabs to the base of the strip in front, sewing the narrow end to the bottom of the strip, and fastening the lower wide portion to the panel seam with a button as shown. Trim the back to match.
Work a round of doubles around the lower edge of each sleeve.
Make a girdle with three threads of the green worked in a crochet chain. Thread this through the knitting and under the four tabs at the front and back, and leave the girdle to pass over the front panel and fasten at the left side. Trim each end with a crochet ball made thus; Make 4 chain, join in a ring.
1. Two d c in each st.
2. Two d c in 1 st, 1 d c in the next, repeat to the end of the round.
Work 6 rounds without increasing, break off the thread, stuff the crochet with cotton or wool, draw up the end and fasten to the end of the girdle.
